There are so many different bikes to choose from these days, that it can be downright hard to choose which one you’ll buy next.  Two strokes or four?  Moto or XC?  Which tranny will it be?  Can you really afford that?  If so, do you even need it?  There are new and used bikes for sale everywhere you look, but oh what a pleasure it is to be overwhelmed this way.  In this article, On the Trail flies off the handle and experiments with yet another approach to hardcore knobbied fun.  We’re really sorry if we add to the confusion, but we sure are having a blast doing it.

Dirtbikes just keep on getting better, don’t they?  Whether you ride on the track, in the woods, or across the desert…for fun or for trophies…you’ll probably agree that machines are more exciting now than during any other time.   In terms of design and performance, the past fifteen years have been the most progressive decade and a half ever.   Development has never been stagnant, but we have certainly seen periods where things moved a little slow.  Prior to Honda’s introduction of the aluminum frame in 1997, it had been quite a while since we’d seen any ground-breakers.  The early 80’s mainstreamed several innovations, such as the inverted fork, disc brakes, and the beloved liquid cooled two-stroke.  Designers marched relentlessly forward, making steady improvements to evolving machines, but the late 90’s unleashed a monsoon of technology that no one could have predicted.

Whether you ride on the track, in the woods, or across the desert…for fun or for trophies…you’ll probably agree that machines are more exciting now than during any other time.

So much has changed…where do I begin?  Four stroke engines of today provide monstrous power, yet remain smooth and user friendly in almost every application.  Frames are lighter and stronger than ever, constructed of state of the art aluminum or chrome-moly steel.  Modern suspensions are mind-blowing, and offer a plush, responsive, and forgiving ride.  Our bikes are more adjustable than ever, allowing us to tune individual systems to meet personal preferences and achieve optimal performance in a variety of conditions.  Properly dialed, these systems work in unison to crank out power and handling that was unconceivable a decade ago.  As performance continues to improve, so do lap times.  Competition is fierce out on the track these days…and equally fierce behind closed doors at the factories.  Designers are on point, cranking out one innovative design after another.

Since Suzuki introduced their fuel injected RMZ a few short years ago, EFI has become very common among four-stroke competition models.  KTM created a buzz (literally) by electrifying their two stroke starting procedure.  They now offer a trick (and extremely handy) EZ button on select two stroke models, which makes stalling a much less tiresome and costly mistake.  Yamaha came out of its wild blue yonder and rattled us with a completely redesigned and somewhat radical 2010 YZ450F, even though the ’09 was an incredible machine.  Husaberg’s thumpers employ an unorthodox, yet effective engine configuration, resulting in unrivaled mass-centralization and tractor-like torque.  Aprilia slings a sweet sounding V-twin, and Husqvarna (one of my new favorites) has an industry-first linkage design that is said to improve handling considerably.  The modern dirt bike truly is a mechanical masterpiece, and a joy to ride.

It goes without saying, however, that all of this innovation doesn’t come cheap.  Brand new KTM, Husaberg, and Husqvarna 450s are crowding the $9000.00 mark, and their Japanese counterparts are only slightly less expensive.  We’re not saying they aren’t worth every penny, because they are…but that’s a lot of jack.  Not just anyone can rush down to their local dealer and buy one of the very best dirt bikes the world has to offer.  The reality is, for every serious rider that can afford to buy a new competition model; there are probably 100 other guys that can not.  So what will all the other guys show up with on race day?  Older bikes, that’s what…but when the flag drops and all hell breaks loose, few people will notice the difference.

Most of us will agree that it’s the rider, not the bike that has the most influence on race results.  This is especially true in cross country, where tracks are long, technical, and obstacle-ridden.  There are thousands of places out in the woods that can cost you time, but thousands more to help make it up.  It’s all on you to make good decisions and execute.  How much power can you put to the ground?  Very few riders can even push a bone stock bike to its full potential, and chances are you are not one of them.  I know I’m not.  Luckily for the other guys who show up with older machines, an abundance of technology, innovation, and cash isn’t needed to go fast and be competitive in the woods.  Sure, having a quality machine is a must in any form of motorized racing…having a new machine, however, is not.  There are no calendars in the scoring tent, but there is a clock…and it makes no distinction between 1997 and 2012.  It counts seconds, then minutes, then hours… it cares nothing about years.  Any mid 90’s and newer bike of an acceptable lineage can be reasonably competitive in the amateur XC ranks with a good rider on it.  How fast was Carmichael on that old that old ’99 KX250?  It absolutely screamed with him on it, even by today’s standards…and it can scream with you on it, too.  If the rider and machine are each prepared to compete at peak performance for 2-3 hours, and he lines up in an appropriate class, then there is always a shot at the podium.   It’s as simple as that.  The age of the machine will always be far less significant than the skill and conditioning of its rider.  Will we ever see an old 250 on the XC1 podium?  I seriously doubt it, but not because it isn’t possible.

For those of us wannabe’s looking to be competitive on a tight budget, we are a bit limited in terms of feasible options.  Generally speaking, our crowd is individualistic, and couldn’t care less about keeping up with the Joneses in the pits.  We do, however, want to keep up with everyone out on the track…even if the guy we are chasing is on a ‘12 model.  So how do we find that perfect balance, where performance and affordability are truly in our corner?  How do we put ourselves on a bike that can compete with that shiny new CRF450, while costing thousands less?  Luckily, we have a couple of options to weigh in the world of used bikes, but we must be careful.  Choosing a pre-owned bike can be like choosing that shorter, riskier line on the last lap of a GNCC.  If you clean it, you may pick up some time and pass a few guys.  But if you get stuck, you’ve made a very costly decision.  When buying, a used bike, especially a four stroke, it’s easy to get stuck.  It’s easy to spend way more money than you budgeted.  Is the bike you’re considering roached out?  Is it set up for a guy that weighs 80 lbs less than you?  Is it a big bore that is illegal in your class? Is it a motocross bike that needs a woods suspension, armor, tank, and bark busters?  You must ask yourself these questions.  “How much is it going to cost me to put that bike on the track?  How much will it cost to dial that thing to my size, skill, and riding style?  How much will I have to spend to make sure it is fresh, reliable, and safe on race day?”

Bike buyers can easily find themselves in the regretful situation of having made a poor investment, or worse.  For example, he may buy a three year old bike for $4000…but after he’s made his changes and freshened it up (top end and suspension), he could easily have five or six grand invested.  That’s great if he has it to spend, but what if he doesn’t?  Will he just put gas in it, ride it as is and hope for the best?  That doesn’t sound very confidence inspiring, does it?  Why is the guy trying to sell the bike in the first place?  Is he simply looking to upgrade, or is he playing hot potato?  Are you the guy he’s been waiting for, to come along and take that time bomb off his hands?  Whether you plan on racing or blasting your local trails, you should begin each ride with confidence, knowing that your bike is within its service limits.  Remember, buying the wrong bike at the wrong time could cost thousands of dollars above your initial investment.  All too often, a blow like this delivers a financial TKO.  No rider wants to be down for the count while his buddies are off somewhere roosting each other.

There are plenty of solid used bikes for sale out there; you just need to know what to look for.  Learn to identify the warning signs that indicate poor general maintenance.  For example, if you see evidence that the owner neglected the chain and sprockets, chances are he also neglected the swing arm, linkage, valves, oil, and filters.  Any bike that is properly cared for will be clean when not in use, so if the bike you are looking at is greasy and muddy from the last three rides, you should beware.  Proof of poor maintenance, especially on modern four strokes, should always turn you away.  Many of these models hold little more than a quart of oil, and it must be changed religiously.  Engine repairs on four strokes are extremely expensive!  Look for reassurances as well, such as an hour meter, service log, and spare maintenance items.  Guys that take good care of their bikes usually have a case of oil, air filters on standby, and replacement oil filters on hand.  If his bike is clean and these items are present, you’ll know he is serious about maintenance.  If you are dealing with a true bike guy (or girl), he or she will likely have a noticeable bond with the bike they are selling.   If you pick up on this, you can feel reasonably confident that the bike has been cared for properly.  Many guys I know look to their circle of riding and racing buddies for their next used bike, as they are familiar with the history of the motorcycle and its owner’s respective maintenance habits.  The bottom line is to avoid impulsive buys and gather as much information as possible about the bike you are considering.  Take the time to check it out thoroughly before making a decision to buy, and always consider the money you’ll have to spend afterwards to make it your race bike.

A less common, but viable option for the budget minded racer is to pick up an older (1996-2005) two stroke, and rebuild it from the frame up.  For the mechanically inclined and patient rider/builder, this is a foolproof alternative to ensure that his ride fits, is reliable, and is much more capable than when it was new.  I like to be different, so I welcome every opportunity to ride something unique.  One thing is for sure, if you’re riding a clean and well-prepped oldie, you’ll turn some heads and get a few thumbs up from your peers.  If you’re like me, you’ll also feel the satisfaction of saving a cycle’s life.  Many of these tired old bikes are getting parted out on Ebay, which is a real shame.  Saving the whales is a noble cause, and so is saving an old two stroke from a ghastly dismemberment.

We chose a worn out, yet promising 1999 KX250 for our project bike.  It will always be a work in progress, but is currently race ready and fast, fast, fast!  How much did it cost?  Well, after all has been said and done, we’re in it for around $4500.  That sure is a lot more than a ’99 KX books for, so are we crazy?  Heck no, we aren’t crazy.  Compare it to that mint condition 1989 IROC-Z you saw on Craig’s list.  NADA says it’s only worth 2 g’s, but the guy will laugh at you if you offer him less than 8.  He’ll get it too, because the car is worth what it is worth.  Retail value goes out the window on race bikes, everyone knows that.  Remember, this is a one off race bike we built to thrash, not a terd we polished to make a few bucks.   This summer when I’m plowing through a Snowshoe GNCC mud pit, I’ll be glad I’m on a bike that is long paid for, as opposed to one that still has three years of payments ahead.  When I catch and pass that guy on his $9000 Husaberg, I’ll chuckle inside knowing that I’m on a ’99 I built with half the money.   We aren’t the least bit concerned about its resale value; we just want to know what it’ll do against those new 450s.

So how does it run?  In terms of power, the Forward Motion/Eric Gorr 295 pumps out about 90% of the horsepower we are seeing from modern 450s.  We chose the low to mid-range porting option, and head mods that allowed us to continue running pump gas.  It really rips, and performs flawlessly down low when lugging through technical, off-pipe terrain.  It pulls extremely hard when turned loose, but the improved low end power effectively smoothes out the power band.  I immediately noticed the absence of the violent power delivery that stock 250s are known for.  Power isn’t linear by any means, but the hit is very manageable and predictable.  Our bike didn’t get a flywheel weight, and I don’t plan to install one.  It doesn’t stall or bog, and retains the snappiness I like for those little surprises we all see out on the trail.  Gorr is an engine builder with both performance and longevity in mind.  His big bore kits include re-plating of the cylinder, and plating of the piston, to ensure better wear and heat resistance on both surfaces.  Forward Motion outsources its plating work to nearby Millennium Technologies, a leader in the resurfacing business.

So fresh and so clean. The Samco Sport Hoses are a must have to complete any restoration.

We wouldn’t dare overlook the bottom end, so we contacted Motosport.com and ordered a Hot Rods Crank, complete with all new bearings and seals.  Green silicone hoses from Samco Sport replaced the grimy brownish black stockers, to keep our engine running and looking cool.  The stock clutch basket was trashed, so we opted for a Hinson Billetproof replacement.  We felt that our new big bore deserved the best clutch components money can buy, and Hinson has certainly earned that reputation.  To complete our new drive train, we installed the Stealth Series Kit from Supersprox.  Its hybrid design, constructed of aluminum and steel, ensures a light but durable system.  The gold, black-toothed rear sprocket matches the included Iris chain (also gold in color) for a really trick look.  For the suspension, we chose KYB service kits (OEM) to return the shock

Race Tech Gold Valves being installed at Go Race, Inc

and forks to near-showroom condition.  We then upgraded them with RaceTech springs and RaceTech Gold Valve Kits, ordered to match my size and skill level.  Our good buddy Travis Jones, owner of Go Race Incorporated, worked his magic with a little custom tuning during the assembly.  His full service shop in Christiansburg, Virginia specializes in world class suspension service.  IMS provided our 3.1 gallon tank, to take us further between pit stops and jaunts on the trail.  No woods bike is complete without an oversize tank, especially a big bore two stroke.  It fits nicely, and looks great nestled inside the white frame and plastic.  IMS also sent us a set of their Pro Series pegs, which I really like.  They are comfortable under my 15’s, and give me that sure-footed feel I often miss with other pegs.

Starting fresh with a clean frame

A frame-off restoration such as this one has many benefits.  As the bike is disassembled, we have the rare opportunity to closely examine the bike to check for damage and wear.  You’ll get a great look at all the bearings, the wiring harness, cables, spokes, drive train, fasteners, etc.  This goes a long way in terms of reliability, since bad or failing parts are discovered here and not on race day.  Have you ever had a $2.00 part end your ride?  This is the time to find and replace it.  We cleaned, sorted, labeled, and stored our disassembled parts as we went, to ensure a smooth, efficient, and confusion-free reassembly.  After inspecting the frame for cracks, we prepped it and took it to B and B powder coating in Pembroke, Virginia.  The white powder coat is trick, and looks cool with the white plastic and 3.1 gallon IMS tank.

B and B Powder coating hooked us up

We all know just how vital it is to be comfortable on the bike we ride.  A frame off build such as this allows us to focus on the rider’s size and preferences as the build progresses, rather than waiting until the end to begin the adjustments.  I like to adjust the controls and route my cables with the plastic off, as everything is much more accessible and visible.  As a big guy (6’9, 250 lbs), I can’t just jump on any bike and be comfortable on it.  For me, it’s important that the rider triangle (bars, seat, pegs) are positioned as far away from one another as possible, to enlarge the “cockpit”.  By opening the angle at my knee, ankle, hip, and shoulder, I am far less cramped.  We installed parts that best suited my ergonomic needs, and made a few minor tweaks along the way.  I run a tall seat, wider pegs, CR Hi bars, 50mm risers, etc.  This set up allows the bars to clear my thighs while cornering, and I can stand comfortably without having to reach to China for the bars.  The combination of a taller seat, higher perched bars, and lower pegs also makes the transition from sitting to standing to sitting much easier for taller riders.  Since we do that countless times during a race, every bit of adjustment helps tremendously to minimize fatigue.  Once the Kaw was reassembled, it was squeaky clean, 100% fresh, torqued to spec, and ready to rip.

This is a semi-custom, purpose built machine that I’m comfortable on, which translates to improved safety, less fatigue, and better overall ride quality.  In terms or reliability, the bike is bulletproof.  It has a brand new engine from the crank up, built by arguably the best builder in the country.  The Race Tech suspension is fresh and tailored to my specific needs, while the new drive train performs great and adds peace of mind.  As for performance, I’m confident this bike performs as well as works bikes of the era.  There is little doubt in my mind that it can be competitive in any off-road series in the country…its rider, on the other hand…well, I wouldn’t go quite that far.

The table below offers a closer look at our parts list and labor costs.

**manufacturer’s names withheld as they are not sponsors of this project

If you want to go XC racing, or just want to hit the trail on a FRESH screamer, we’ve covered a few options for you to consider.  So how do they compare in terms of value?

1. Buy a brand spanking new bike and woods it out.  $8000.00-$12000.00
2. Buy a used late model bike $3000.00-$8000.00.  Price varies with add-ons and needed repairs (answered prayers not included).
3. Frame-off transformation of a 250 smoker to a 295 screamer.  $3000.00-$6000.00, depending on age and upgrades.  The 295, with upgraded suspension, offers an estimated 85% of the overall performance of a new 450.  However, it does so with a 40-70% overall savings.  I really like the math here.  How much will that ’12 model be worth in 4 years?  Compare that number to what you will have spent to finance it (principle, interest, add-ons, and maintenance).  You could easily spend 12-15k by the time it’s paid for!  Remember, the restored 295 has already depreciated, and it will be completely paid for while you are thrashing it.

Is option #3 for everyone?  Nope.  If you must hire a mechanic for all of the work, you can expect to pay big money for labor.  However, for the mechanically inclined and financially limited rider, it’s a rock solid route.  If you’re a decent wrench who’s capable of throwing down some fast laps, you can get to the front of the pack on a custom 295.  Whether you are looking for your next winter project, or looking for an inexpensive but solid bike to race…consider giving yourself a present by looking to the past.

T Jackson, Dirt bike Editor

onthetrailtv.com

This project started with a 2012 Polaris Ranger RZR 800, the only 50” Trail Legal UTV. With such a growing industry, we were so surprised that Polaris Industries was the only manufacturer to enter the 50” Side by Side Market. After we picked up the new machine and went for a quick test ride, we were immediately impressed with the stock capabilities. This only increased our desire to start wrenching and start building a custom trail machine that is both maneuverable in the woods, yet still Racetrack worthy. During this stage we will be addressing 3 major concerns, Power, Safety, and some Bling.

First step to increase power will be to increase air intake. We replaced the stock air filter with a UNI Air Filter NU-8513ST. This helped to increase air flow, extend filter life, and provided maximum protection for the motor. This foam air filter is also washable, and with the UNI Foam Air Filter Service Kit, it’s easy to clean and oil the filter. Simply washing and oiling of your filter will keep your motor fresh, protected, and running at peak performance.

Next we will address the exhaust. We wanted to help the motor breath by using an exhaust system that didn’t require frequent repacking and gave us the horsepower jump we were looking for. We replaced the stock exhaust with a Bikeman Performance Full Velocity UTV Exhaust. As soon as the install was complete, we had to turn the key, grab our riding gear and went out for a quick rip. We immediately felt the difference with the pipe. The motor revved so quickly that the rev limiter engaged before the clutch would grab another gear. When we ordered the exhaust the knowledgeable staff informed us this would happen and helped us with clutching options. The final power step was to use the proper clutch setup to put all the newfound power to the ground. BMP recommended their Stage 1 Clutch Kit. This clutch kit came with a custom weight system and a weight formula suited to my style of riding. To achieve the correct weight formula, BMP asked several questions including elevation, tire size, motor size, and riding discipline. After install upon initial testing, our Razor launched quicker, pulled harder, and screamed as it quickly went through all the gears with a thunderous roar. Now that we have more power and more speed, it is time to think about safety.

BMP Stage 1 Clutch Kit.

Bikeman Performance Full Velocity UTV Exhaust

When machines are pushed harder, because of speed, terrain, obstacles, or simple mistakes, things break or situations happen quickly. That’s where the safety comes in. We installed a set of 4-point harnesses from DragonFire Racing. These were very easy to install, however removing the stock seatbelts was quite a battle. Preventing the seatbelt from rotating and damaging the brain box was difficult when the bolt thru the belt assembly was rotated. Once installed with belts pulled tight, these harnesses were very comfortable.

4-point harnesses from DragonFire Racing

Next safety modification was the lighting. While the 2012 Rzr 900XP has LED lighting, the 800 model we used didn’t. We installed a LazerStar 32” LX1016C Combo Flood and Spot light bar up top and a pair of LazerStar 4” LX2304 4 LED Spots under the front bumper with the 2 spots spread to help shine light into

blind corners. With a flip of a switch the 32” Light bar turns darkness into daybreak and these LazerStar lights utilize Cree LED’s, which makes the light very white, and very bright. Seeing is safety.

LazerStar 32” LX1016C Combo Flood and Spot light bar

Our next concern was to make sure this machine stays strong and safely returns after every ride. Whether you are racing or on the trail, a strong front bumper protects many things, the occasional bumping, or the oops factor when you know it’s too late to save. Let’s hope this isn’t needed for the latter however our Warn Industries Front Bumper will protect your machine’s lights, radiator, plastics, and more. Another safety issue was addressed when we added our Warn XT-3000 with synthetic rope. In comparison to steel cable, not only does the synthetic rope reduce total weight of the winch, but also increases the tensile strength of the line being used to tow, winch, or recover.

When riding trails and tracks in different states, we run the risk of damage from rocks, trees, etc…so we installed a set of Top Dog Outfitter Aluminum Rock Sliders. Whether it’s a rock or a tree stump the rock slider protects the plastics and helps to keep machine sliding forward so front wheels can help pull you over the obstacle. We also installed Top Dog’s Front Grill which also protects the radiator from tree or rock punctures.

The stock Razor came with black stamped steel rims. Even though we are big fans of the blacked out look, we wanted something that was a little more eye popping. We were thinking aluminum for weight, with a unique design, and stylish with a little color. No Limit makes aluminum rims for virtually all UTV’s and Quad’s. They have many different models, styles, edge options and colors to create the exact look to fit your style and need. We picked some Model-12” Venom’s, Style-Positive, Edge- Bullet, and Color-Polaris Indy Red. Even though I can’t see them from the driver’s seat, all the compliments on the rims still manage to make me smile behind the wheel.

NoLimit 12” Venom’s, Style-Positive, Edge- Bullet, and Color-Polaris Indy Red

Next we installed a Molded Roof from EMP Extreme Metal Products. This roof fit perfect with all the hardware included and even comes with a dome light that works perfect on the trail. With just a single strip of weather stripping between the Roll-Over Protective Structure (ROPS) and molded roof, the roof is silent even wide open. We also installed an EMP 4 Powered Switch Block to run all our accessories.  This keeps wires neat, was very easy to install, and illuminated switches light up red when power is on so you can monitor your switches from the cockpit.

Molded Roof from EMP Extreme Metal Products.

EMP 4 Powered Switch Block

Whether you are On The Trail, thinking about the trail, or one of the many companies who support the trails and our great sport, please check out and visit all of our project bike sponsors.

Special thanks to the following sponsors involved with this project.

Bikeman Performance (BMP)     www.bikemanperformance.com    715-294-4575

DragonFire Racing                         www.dragonfireracing.com            888-566-5950

Extreme Metal Products (EMP) www.extrememetalproducts.com 800-262-2768

LazerStar Lights                             www.lazerstar.net                            800-624-6234

No Limit Wheels                            www.nolimitwheels.com                888-848-8024

Top Dog Outfitters                        www.topdogoutfitter.com             317-731-4396

UNI Filters                                       www.unifilter.com                           714-535-6933

Warn Industries                             www.warn.com                               800-543-9276

We hope to see you riding your dream machine…On The Trail!

Stay tuned while we give you some up to date info on our new project RZR 900.

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